A Beginner’s Guide to Measuring Windows for Motorised Curtains

Stop guessing—measure right the first time: a photo-ready guide for first-time buyers of motorised curtains

Buying motorised curtains is exciting: quieter mornings, smart-home scenes, and hands-free privacy. But one bad measurement turns that dream into a return ticket and delays. This guide gives you a simple, photo-ready plan to measure windows for motorised curtains—covering track types, required clearance, DIY measuring tips, installation prep, and the common mistakes beginners make in 2026.

Why measuring matters now (2026 trends)

In late 2024 through 2026 the motorised-curtain market shifted fast: low-profile battery motors, Matter and Thread smart-home compatibility, and slim recessed tracks are mainstream. At CES 2026 several manufacturers highlighted ultra-efficient tubular motors and rechargeable modules that let installers hide everything inside the track. That convenience means measurements must be more precise—tracks sit closer to the ceiling and stackbacks are smaller, so inaccurate widths or drops have bigger impact.

Quick takeaway

• Measure to the track, not the fabric, unless you already own the track.
• Account for stackback (how much curtain collects at the sides) and furniture clearance before ordering motors.
• Photograph each window from three angles—these photos will help vendors and installers confirm your measurements remotely.

Track types and what they mean for measuring

Pick the right measurement method once you know the track type. Below are the most common tracks you’ll encounter in 2026 and the specific measurement implications for each.

Straight ceiling-recessed track

Track sits inside a ceiling recess; the motor is usually hidden in the track. Measure the width of the recess and the distance from the ceiling recess to the floor. Allow for a 10–30 mm allowance if the track will be recessed flush into plaster.

Face-fixed (wall or cornice) track

Mounted on the wall above the window or on a decorative cornice. Measure from the outside edge of the left fixing point to the outside edge of the right fixing point. Also measure from the fixing position down to the floor or sill for drop.

Curtain rod (motorised rod)

Motor hidden inside a hollow rod. Measure centre-to-centre of wall supports if you can't remove the rod. For motorised rods, you may need to allow extra end clearance for the motor housing—check the motor specs.

Curved or bay-window track

Measure each straight section separately and include the angle point measurements. For bay windows it’s best to photograph and sketch the bay, then supply the measurements for each wall segment plus the corner radius if available.

Telescopic or extendable tracks

These are adjustable on-site. Measure the full maximum width available and the minimum width you’d accept. They’re forgiving, but you still need accurate drop and clearance measurements.

Tools you need for photo-ready DIY measuring

• Tape measure (5–8 m / 16–26 ft)
• Laser distance meter (recommended for tall windows)
• Stepladder or stable stool
• Spirit level (or phone level app)
• Masking tape and pencil for marking
• Smartphone camera—take photos from front, left, and right at eye height and from below
• Notebook or measurement form (or the vendor’s measurement template)

Step-by-step photo-ready measuring tutorial (6 steps)

Follow this step-by-step method. Pause after each step and take the photos described—these are the images you’ll send to your supplier or installer.

Step 1 — Identify the track type and mounting method

1. Look up into the top of the window: is there a visible rod, a built-in track recess, or nothing (ready for face-fix)?
2. Photo: one close-up of the top of the window from 30–50 cm away showing the existing track or blank wall.

Step 2 — Measure width (the critical number)

Two common approaches—inside-recess and outside-face fix—require different rules.

For inside-recess (track inside window frame)

1. Measure the width at three points: top, middle, bottom of the recess.
2. If measurements differ by more than 6 mm, the recess is not square—note which is smallest and tell the installer.
3. Photo: straight-on image of the recess with a tape visible—helps confirm scale.

For outside-face fix (track mounted above/around the window)

1. Decide how much side overlap you want. Common rule: at least 100–150 mm (4–6 in) each side for full blackout; 50–100 mm for light control.
2. Measure from the left outer edge to the right outer edge where the track will be fixed. If using a cornice, measure to the cornice edges.
3. Photo: wider shot of the entire window and surrounding wall to show furniture and obstructions.

Step 3 — Measure drop (curtain length)

Decide whether mount is face-fixed (below cornice) or ceiling-recessed. Use the same three-point measurement method: left, centre, right.

• For floor-to-ceiling curtains, measure from the track base to the floor minus 5–10 mm for clearance (depends on floor covering).
• For sill-length, measure to the sill top and subtract 5–10 mm so curtains sit just above the sill.
• Photo: profile photo from the side showing distance to furniture or radiator.

Step 4 — Check and measure for clearance

Clearance is where first-time buyers often go wrong. Check these points and photograph each.

• Top clearance: distance from ceiling to top of window or recess. Important if using a motorised track with a top-mounted motor housing.
• Side clearance: measurements from wall edges to nearest obstruction (e.g., door frames, shelves).
• Bottom clearance: space between sill/floor and any furniture, heaters, or skirting boards. Radiators may force curtains to sit above the sill or require a gap.
• Stackback: measure how much width will be used by the curtain when open. Typical stackback depends on heading style (wave vs pleat) and track thickness—measure the distance from the window edge to where the curtain rests when fully opened. Photo: take a photo with the curtain open and measure the visible curtain fold.

Step 5 — Special window types: bays, slopes, and blinds

For bay windows: break the bay into separate wall sections and measure each straight section. Photograph the whole bay and take close-ups of corner profiles. For windows with sloping tops (e.g., skylights), measure multiple height points and note the slope angle.

Step 6 — Document motor location and power

• Decide whether you want battery, plug-in, or hardwired motor. Photograph the wall near the window where a power outlet could be located.
• If hardwiring, note where the breaker box is and confirm an electrician is available; include a photo of the room power outlet situation.
• Note any requests for hub integration (e.g., Matter, Zigbee, Wi‑Fi). In 2026 many motors support Matter—confirm compatibility with your smart home ecosystem.

How to calculate curtain widths (and fullness)

When ordering motorised curtains you usually provide the track width, and the curtain maker will calculate fabric width using a fullness multiplier. If you’re ordering ready-made or motor-only, use these rules:

• Grommet or rod headings: 1.5–2x fullness of the track width.
• Wave or ripple headings (common with motorisation): typically 2x fullness for good stacking and smooth motor operation.
• Example: a 2.4 m (2400 mm) track with wave heading at 2x fullness needs 4.8 m of fabric (two panels totalling 4,800 mm).

Tip: motors prefer even load distribution. If your window is wide, consider two parallel tracks or a split pair (left and right motorised) to reduce motor strain and improve travel time.

Stackback: the measurement most pros check twice

Stackback is how much of the window is covered by gathered curtain when open. It matters for light and sightlines and increases the effective clearance you need on each side.

• Wave heading stackback: typically 10–20% of the curtain width per side (depends on fabric thickness).
• Pleated headings can take more space—plan for 200–300 mm per side for heavy blackout curtains on deep pleats.
• Always measure stackback with your chosen heading and fabric samples if possible.

Common measuring mistakes—and how to avoid them

1. Measuring the wrong point: measuring the glass or frame when you need the track width. Fix: confirm whether vendor needs recess width or face-fix width.
2. Ignoring stackback: curtains block too much of the window when open. Fix: measure stackback and add to face-fix width.
3. Not checking for obstructions: radiators, door swing, and handles often obstruct curtain travel. Fix: photograph and measure clearances around the window.
4. Assuming walls are square: uneven drops or widths cause poor fit. Fix: measure top/middle/bottom and note variations.
5. Forgetting motor housing dimensions: some motors need side or top clearance. Fix: request motor spec PDF from supplier before ordering.
6. Weak fixings: plasterboard without proper plugs can fail under motor load. Fix: note wall construction and plan for proper anchors or timber support.

Installation prep checklist

Before the installer arrives (or before your DIY install), use this checklist:

• Confirm power option: battery, plug-in, or hardwired.
• Charge batteries or have spare batteries ready—2026 batteries last longer but still need commissioning charge.
• Have a helper for heavy/floor-to-ceiling tracks—safety first.
• Clear furniture away by at least 60 cm in front of the window for safe ladder use.
• Provide installer photos and measurements—these speed up site prep and reduce visit time. If you want a quick sanity check before ordering, some services now offer a remote review that looks like a lightweight version of a measurement workflow for home products.
• Check motor weight limits and curtain heading weight (fabric GSM). Some slim outrunner motors are limited for heavy blackout curtains.

Real-world mini case studies (experience speaks)

Case study 1: Sarah’s living room floor-to-ceiling curtains

Sarah wanted motorised wave curtains for a 3.2 m wide, floor-to-ceiling window. She measured track width as 3,200 mm face-fix with 150 mm overlap each side. She photographed the radiator below and a sofa 300 mm from the window. The installer suggested moving the track 100 mm higher to clear the radiator pipework and recommended a split motor (two motors with a center join) since her chosen blackout fabric would exceed a single motor’s rated pull. Result: smooth operation, full blackout, and no radiator interference.

Case study 2: Bay-window breakfast nook

For a curved bay, the homeowner measured each face: 900 mm, 1200 mm, 900 mm, and provided corner photos. The vendor recommended a custom curved track with continuous motorised drive. The homeowner sent a photo with a tape visible across each face to confirm. The final fit used a low-profile, rechargeable track motor showcased at CES 2026 due to limited ceiling space.

When to hire a pro vs DIY measuring and install

Measure yourself and send photos for quotes—this saves time and avoids travel fees. Hire a pro when:

• You're hardwiring motors to mains power (legal and safety reasons)
• Windows are irregular, curved, or high and inaccessible
• You have heavy blackout fabrics near radiators or need timber supports behind plasterboard

Final checklist before ordering

1. Three-width measurements and three-drop measurements for each window.
2. Photos: front, left, right, and from below showing ceiling/floor context.
3. Stackback measurement or a note on desired overlap.
4. Power method and any desired smart-home integration (Matter, Zigbee, Wi‑Fi).
5. Fabric choice or heading style to confirm fullness and motor capacity.

Measure once, measure right: a good picture plus three measurements saves time, money, and returns.

Quick troubleshooting (if things go wrong)

• If curtains don’t reach the floor: check you measured from the track base, not the ceiling plaster.
• If curtain rubs against a radiator or furniture: remove and re-measure stackback and drop; consider moving the track higher or choosing a shorter drop.
• If the motor struggles: confirm curtain weight vs motor pull spec and consider split motors or a stronger motor with higher torque.

Advanced tips for 2026 buyers

• Look for Matter compatibility if you want future-proof smart-home control—many 2025–26 motors added support for Matter/Thread.
• Choose rechargeable motors if your window is in a location where wiring is difficult—modern batteries last much longer and charge faster.
• For energy-conscious homes, consider motors with soft-start/soft-stop profiles and low standby draw; these reduce mechanical wear and lower energy use.

Actionable summary: 8-point measuring checklist

1. Identify track type: recessed, face-fix, rod, or curved.
2. Measure width at top, middle, bottom (or specify face-fix outer points).
3. Measure drop at left, centre, right.
4. Photograph top, left, right, and a wide shot showing furniture and outlets.
5. Measure and note top/side/bottom clearances—include radiator and furniture distances.
6. Measure current stackback or ask supplier for expected stackback by heading style.
7. Decide power method and photograph wall outlets/space for motor housing.
8. Send measurements and photos to two suppliers for comparative quotes and motor spec PDFs.

Next steps — get a quote and reduce risk

Ready to buy? Use your photos and measurement checklist to request written quotes from at least two motor manufacturers or installers. Ask for these three items in writing: motor torque rating, motor mounting dimensions, and expected stackback for your heading style and fabric weight. If you’d like, we can review your photos and measurements and give a quick, free sanity check before you order. For tips on streamlining that remote review and measurement handoff, see this measurement workflow that vendors use to reduce site visits.

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Don’t wait—upload your measurement photos and specs now for a free measurement review and tailored motor recommendations. Our experts will check your numbers, confirm track type, and suggest the most reliable motor and heading for your window style. Click to get a free quote and avoid costly returns.

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